Thursday, June 30, 2016

June 30 - Musée national des beaux-arts du Québec, Chez Gaston and Vieux Quebec (Old Quebec)

Our hotel, the Chateau Frontenac, is located at a commanding position on cliffs overlooking the St. Lawrence Seaway in Quebec City's historic Old Town or Vieux Quebec which constitutes the part of the city that is contained by the old city walls.  Although touristy, Old Town is undoubtedly charming and feels very European.  That's what everyone says about Quebec City and it's true - everything that we love about France without the jet lag.  

After grabbing another amazing coffee from Cantook, we visited the newly remodeled and recently reopened Musée national des beaux-arts du Québec.  I had expected it to be busier on the afternoon starting a long weekend but, it felt like we had the place to ourselves.  In fact, there’s very little foot traffic or car traffic anywhere we go!  I’m not sure where everyone is.  Probably Europe.

Charlotte had a longer runway for art than the other 2 so I took them to the playground while we waited.  I love watching my kids interact with other kids when they don’t share a common language. Jacqui disengages almost immediately but Natalie, being younger and less self-conscious, tries harder to negotiate a way to play together.  There are a lot of kids here who are not bilingual so Natalie is getting lots of practice at charades!

After the art, we took a recommendation from a NYT article that Jack had read and drove over to Chez Gaston for our second poutine of the trip.  The author of the article must have been drunk because this poutine would have been awesome if we were drunk.  Alas, we were not so we sampled the house special (Fries, cheese curds, gravy, ground beef and sliced up hot dog) and the traditional poutine and called it a day!  Kids are still not on board with the poutine so we have our work cut out for us.  They like cheese curds and fries so we are 2/3 of the way there.  

After a refreshing dip in the hotel pool and a somewhat scandalous walk back to our room, we got cleaned up and wandered out into old town to take in the atmosphere and get some dinner.  After a perfunctory pub dinner, we stopped and got some maple syrup taffy – a local delicacy that we’ve tried to emulate in Tahoe numerous times but always failed miserably.  This was perfect!  We scampered along the city wall to take in the sunset and walk off all that sugar.   Old Quebec is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and it's not hard to understand why.  Bon nuit.









































Wednesday, June 29, 2016

June 29 - Ville du Quebec!!

Jack got up early to go for a run (in the rain).  Show off!

The girls and I woke up in a more leisurely manner and got ourselves going by around 11 local time.  After greeting Daphnie, the mascot of Chateau Frontenac, we went out in search of caffeine and carbs!  Goodbye ketosis; hello croissants!

We stopped first at the 3rd wave coffee joint called Cantook .  (According to Wikipedia, "the third wave of coffee is a movement to produce high-quality coffee, and consider coffee as an artisanal foodstuff, like wine, rather than a commodity.")  The earnest and bespectackled hipsters who run the place would look very at home on Valencia Street in San Francisco!  And, although I was very tired,  this was quite possibly THE BEST CUP OF COFFEE I'VE EVER HAD!  You'd better watch out, Timmy!!   The resident roaster at Cantook, Simon, generously sat down with us and gave us lots of great tips on visiting Quebec City including the restaurant where we had dinner tonight; Pizza Nina.

Then we stopped at Le Paingruel for their famous citrus croissant,  among other snacks then on to the Quebec Aquarium which was underwhelming after the Shed Aquarium in Chicago but perfectly enjoyable for the kids.  We most enjoyed the baby walruses and the Aire du Jeux (a ropes course that was just the right amount of challenging/dangerous).

After arriving back at the hotel, we took the kids for a dip in the hotel pool and then off to Pizza Nina for dinner,  The food was great and the service felt very French.  Friendly and completely Unrushed.  Normally I enjoy the chance to linger over my aperitif but, dining with 3 hungry kids puts the passage of time into quite sharp focus!  20 minutes to order, another 40 to get our pizzas.  Natalie was so over it that she fell asleep *on* the table.  We were prepared for the worst but she woke up hungry and in surprisingly good spirits.   We wrapped things up with a Nutella pizza.  A cherry on top of a sundae of a day!